Paradoxe well known of women’s lingerie, the climbing ropes respond to the same finding that the less matter and the more expensive it is! Would the string have the vocation of not being cheap? Not if you manage to define your practice precisely and by extension your needs. So string or cotton panties?
A string of 9mm, although its manufacture requires less nylon, will be much more expensive than a rope in 10.2mm. Except that for the blow and unlike lingerie, the tariff is justified by a debauchery of technology to get to climb with ropes of smaller and smaller diameter. For the interest of producing a fine rope, besides gaining weight, is to gain versatility simply by replacing the good old double rope. Indeed, with a single rope of 9 mm, you can climb in cliffs in increasingly longer tracks (up to seventy meters in the Tarn) without having the impression of hoisting your insurer at the same time but Also use this duplicate rope for large tracks and other chutes if the heart tells you. But this versatility has a cost and in particular the one related to the triple certification to which the string must respond, that is to the norms of force of shock for single string (<12 KN), for double rope (< 8KN) and for twin rope (<12 KN). In short, it de facto makes the design and manufacture of this type of rope inevitably affect the price. Moreover, in order to longevity and to fully satisfy the”all-terrain” program of these single strings, manufacturers do not skimp on multiple and varied treatments against moisture, dust, heat, swelling,’Abrasion … which they also have a cost like every additional coat of paint on your car’s bodywork! So are we condemned to follow the fashion of the ever finer, even in climbing?
Today, with the appearance of single ropes of small diameter (8.9 for the finest), we can question the interest a climber has to invest in a double rope only to go When a single rope of eighty yards can do everything, and better still, by dividing the number of lengths by two? The answer is certainly that a small single rope is only to be put in the hands of experts, especially when it is new and it runs between your fingers as fast as a net d ‘water. So opting for a double rope in the great way remains a safe guarantee for climbers who do not climb their daily bread. For a similar weight and bulk, you will have a much greater grip with a double rope and the two strands of different colors remain a very important visual reference in the manipulations of strings that requires the climbing in highway. Moreover, two strands of fifty yards will strand much less than a hundred yards.
Here is the selection of strings retained to take the height:
>> Genesis 8,5 mm at Mammut
>> Oxygen II 8.2 mm at Edelweiss
>> Rubix 8,5 mm at Millet
>> Cobra II 8,6 mm at Béal
>> Simond Twin 8.6mm String
>> Duetto 8,4 mm at Sterling Rope
These strings, constituted as their name indicates by a single strand, are those which common sense means that one uses to climb on what is commonly called rinds. Hence the so-called sports sites or the climbing rooms which do not require, for example, to carry out reminders to go down. But if you are only a room climber or inversely allergic to the resin, your choice should not be on the same rope and the climber of the room should at the same time make a few minor savings compared to the cliff. It is necessary to compensate the price of the subscription!
>> FOR THE CAS
There is no need to choose a rope of eighty meters, knowing that the largest artificial structures do not exceed twenty meters. You multiply by two and you get the necessary length necessary and at the same time the small economy realized! Also in the room, the points are very (very) close to each other so the falls little consequent. It is therefore not necessarily necessary to choose a rope with a very low impact force. In the room, your rope will not drag either in the characteristic dust of the cliff feet and is not supposed to take the rain. Hence the possibility of saving a little more by choosing a rope without special treatment. Moreover, to remain in reasonable prices, brands offer more and more cords without treatment.And then between us, in order for the treatment to be effective, it is necessary to carry out a polymerization at high temperature, which few manufacturers know how to do. On the other hand, when it is well done, it increases considerably the fluidity of the rope. Not necessarily necessary in SAE where the tracks are generally rectilinear for obvious reasons of space and profitability. Last criterion, the diameter that goes along with the weight and which directly affects the lifetime. For the SAE, a diameter between 9.5 mm and 10.2 seems sensible for a good quality / lifetime.
Here are the strings that best meet the above criteria:
>> Velocity 9,8 mm at Sterling Rope
>> Infinity 9.5 mm at Mammut
>> Cobalt 10 mm at Millet
>> Element II 10.2 at Edelweiss
>> Yuji 10 mm at Béal
>> Simon’s Cliff 10,2 mm
>> FOR THE CLIFF
The tracks are increasingly long and the uneven drawing from one line to the other, the fluidity and the weight of the rope are the two criteria to study closely for a regular practice in cliff. The fluidity is not just a question of diameter and the new Diablo string from Béal is the proof with a diameter of 10.2 and an excellent coefficient of friction, close to the finest strings. Except for the moment and on the market, the diameter remains a criterion of choice in the same way as the treatments which considerably increase the fluidity of the rope and its lifespan. That is to say that several treatments can be applied to the same string in several possible ways. But the most effective (and the most expensive) are those that apply to both the core and the sheath at the time of the retraction phase, which gives the dynamism to the rope. The fixation is then total and the treatment will not vanish in nature to the first rubs of the rope in the draw or on the pebble. To choose a performance cord, it is better to attach weight rather than diameter because the measurements remain more reliable. On the other hand for the weight, there is no need to check for yourself whether the weight per meter announced by the manufacturer is good. For example, if you divide the weight of the rope by its length, you will find between four and seven grams more than on the technical sheet. This difference comes from the protocol set up to weigh the strings. Indeed, 1.20 meters to 1.50 meters of rope is powered for one minute with a weight of ten kilos (for single strings) before being cut to one meter and then weighed. In summary, for a rope of seventy meters, the protocol divides its weight by a much greater length (about eighty meters), hence a weight per meter less. But what to remember before the test of Formula 1 of the string that follows, is the confirmation by Vincent Maillocheau, climber emeritus and responsible for the testing and certification center of Fontaine (near Grenoble), that All the strings are not equal and it is not only the color that changes.
What you must remember
The shock force
It is a technical datum essential to take into account because it materializes the force undergone by your body at the end of a fall. The lower the value, the better. To caricature a little, the impact force of a rope is its ability to cushion the climber in the event of a fall by absorbing a maximum of energy. To be able to compare strings with each other and in particular the three types of strings that are single, double and twin, it is necessary to know that the force of shock is not measured in the same way according to the type of rope. A simple rope is tested by a 1.77-fold fall reproduction of a mass of 80 kg, a twin rope with 80 kg on its two strands and finally a double rope with a mass of 55 kg on a single strand .
Integrate well before comparing.
Number of falls
The single strings must withstand the five-fold successive falls of factor 1.77 with a mass of 80 kg, the successive doubles with five successive drops with a mass of 55 kg and the twin ropes with twelve successive falls with one Mass of 80 kg on both strands.
The fall factor
It determines the violence of the shock that the climber will have to encounter during a fall. This value is calculated by dividing the drop height by the length of string used. Above factor 2, your body would not stand the shock. Starting from a relay, if you drop five meters with two meters fifty rope out, you reach the factor 2 and this is not good news. On the other hand, ten meters of fall at the end of forty meters of rope will only make you suffer a factor of 0.25, which is eight times less than a fall from the relay.
The weight per meter
The weight of a rope per meter is measured according to a very precise protocol. The first step is to condition the strings by drying the test samples for at least 24 hours in an atmosphere conditioned at a temperature of 50° C and a relative humidity of less than 10%. Then, the samples are cooled for two hours in an atmosphere at 20° C and with a relative humidity of not more than 65%. Then, condition the test samples for at least seventy-two hours in an atmosphere at 20 ° C and 65 ± 2% relative humidity. The measurements can then be carried out at a temperature of 23° C. To measure a meter of rope, the rope must be tensioned for one minute and ten kilos for a single rope, six kilos for double ropes and five kilos for twin ropes. In short, a protocol that takes away realities and it is for this reason that we stupidly divided the weight of the rope by its length (which in passing is always a little bigger than the length announced) to give you a figure that corresponds more At the real weight you are going to have to drag at the end of your trigger guard.
Rock+ Rock Climbing Rope
How to Choose the Best Climbing Rope
How to choose ropes ?
Rock+ Climbing Rope
What is a Reepschnur rappel?
Tech Tip: Assisted Lower and Rappel
Rock climbing team grows with open arms – The Orion
Petzl Reverso 4
How to choose harness ?
Rock+ Climbing Rope
Petzl Volta Climbing Rope 9,2 mm x 80 m orange at …
Climbing, with Sean Allen
VOLTA® 9.2 mm
SIMOND ROCKY BLUE QUICKDRAW